Sept 8 - 11: On to Glen Coe and Glen Nevis

We have just finished hiking up Ben Nevis -- the UK's largest mountain. It
was a cloudy day and we spent part of the hike in the clouds. We had to use compass bearings to find our way coming back down. But it was a fine hike anyway, as we did get views about half-way down. We were thinking that our friends Dave Chesterman and Mark Weston would really like this little tramp!

The real gem of the last few days was the bike ride over the last stretch of the West Highland Way. We loaded up the bikes and headed up Loch Leven from Glen Coe to Kinlochleven. This was rollercoaster of a ride -- great views of the mountains, glens, and lochs. The day was sunny and warm and the visibility was excellent.

At Kinlochleven we had several kilometres of up, up, up -- to the Mamore Lodge, where we joined the Way. Then it was up and through a high, but rather flat pass -- mountains rising all above us, a few ruins in the middle of the pass. The day was really quite perfect. We passed a few walkers, and they all looked at us as if we were crazy. We did look quite a sight with our fully loaded bikes dodging potholes and rock, and fording streams.

The West Highland Way day was Jan's birthday, so we had a b-day picnic for her in the middle of the trail -- Strongbow, chocolate, and presents.

We were thinking that Lisa and John (especially John) and Mark Weston would really enjoy this route. We had to be up on our bike handling skills to get the most out of this day.

The end of the Way gave us great views of Ben Nevis, and made Mike and I more determined than ever to climb it the next day. It is wild how quickly the weather changes here -- so beautiful and sunny one moment, then overcast and blowy the next.

In Fort William, at the end of the Way, Jan and Alan opted for B&B while Mike and I hit the hostel. Jan and Alan will now be making their own way forward, as there are a number of things that they want to see, while Mike and I want to try and get in a bit more hiking if possible. We will probably meet up again somewhere on the route.

ttfn
Mary

Our route and pictures:
Our route from Mull to Glen Coe and Glen Nevis
Glen Coe pictures
West Highland Way (and Jan's b-day) pictures
Pictures from the Ben Nevis hike

Sept 4 - 8 The Isle of Mull

Just like David Balfour in Kidnapped, we had some rain on Mull. However,we also had a glorious day on Iona and one of the finest rides down a high cliff-side single track -- no traffic, and views opening all around us as the cloud and mist shredded away. Iona was our sunshine day on Mull. Not only a place of amazing carved Celtic crosses -- some from 800 AD, but hiking was great on the sand beaches.

We had two lovely B&Bs on Mull -- New Croft in Bunessan (thank you for the coal fire Helen), and Ard Mhor in Salen. Also, camping at the Shieling campground was fun. In all of these places we had a chance to talk with so many interesting people -- the woman cage fighter, her husband training to swim the English Channel in record time, the fell runner from England, the wildlife enthusiast (who had been more places in Canada than Mike or I!), the young student just finishing cycling around Scotland -- all very interesting and engaging folks that we would not have met otherwise.

ttfn mary

Route and picture information:
Our routes on Mull and area.
Pictures from Mull and area
Pictures from Iona

Sept 2 - 3 Back on the mainland

We left Port Ellen on the island of Islay after a great smoked haddock breakfast (an Alan-recommended breakfast!) -- we were heading back to the
mainland for two days of riding through the heart of old Celtic, pagan Scotland. We visited Kilmartin Glen, home of standing stones (although
they are all over the west coast and islands in Scotland), burial cairns, carved stones, and stone circles. It was a sunny day, and this glen was as welcoming to us as it must have been to those people who moved in a put up the stones and constructed the cairns all those thousands of years ago.

The only downside -- Jan had her bike computer stolen off her bike as she visited some of the standing stones. I guess the glen was pretty welcoming to thieves too.

From the glen it was along the north shore of Loch Awe -- a rolly single-track road along the water. We were travelling through Scotish
forestry plantations, and some of their harvesting practices looked pretty "BC", a lot of slash on the ground, and a lot of trees taken off steep slopes. However, the riding and the lake were great. We even stopped for a skinny-dip in the Loch. Alan got his first tick after his swim -- he has moved from being a chick-magnet to a tick-magnet.

We spent one night at the top of Loch Awe. Our hosts and B&B were wonderful. Innisfree (the B&B) had three border collies, tea and cakes
when we arrived, and a nice dram of good single malt scotch to end the day.

ttfn
Mary

Our route and pictures through this area:
Our route
Pictures from the area

Islay Riding

Finally, I have been able to get to an internet-connected computer! Just a quick update on riding on the island of Islay. We cycled the northern and western portions in good weather on quiet roads. We saw some great birds
(hen-harriers), but the Celtic crosses - some dating from the 800s were the most interesting things (to me at least). We had some trail riding and
off-road riding below the most magnificant sea-cliffs on the west coast
near Machir Bay.

Our third day on Islay had us out on the Oa -- wild moorlands with views all the way to Ireland. We also got a personal tour of the Lagavulin distillary -- 1.5 hour tour, and lots of great samples.

Food on Islay was great -- especially smoked haddock for breakfast.

Overall, the cycling has been fantastic thus far. I certainly recommend Islay -- both for the scotch and riding!

More info on our other ports of call in the next few days.

ttfn
Mary


Our routes and pictures:
Biking and hiking routes on Islay
Hiking and biking pictures
Lagauvlin distillery tour pictures
Celtic crosses on Islay